Pics from a lovely Sunday morning in Vesterbro.
Had a lovely morning here on Saturday, despite the despairing looks on folks’ faces. Got some nice old books for Gerda and some toys for when she’s a bit older.
This afternoon I strapped Gerda into her seat on the front of my bike and we went and explored Carlsberg.
While still the corporate HQ of the company, the area is being comprehensively redeveloped – 3,000 homes are going to be built here – but it’s currently a charming hodgepodge of adventure parks, artificial beaches, playgrounds, and assorted event arenas, sprawling in the long shadows of the mostly defunct industrial buildings.
Our route there takes us through Humleby, the maze of beautiful terraced houses originally built for employees of Burmeister and Wain, and then up the main cobbled street and into the heart of the area. We poked around the Boxland Bazar – a temporary flea-market housed in shipping containers complete with beach bar – and then strolled around enjoying the sunny weather and taking pictures.
Animals aside, Copenhagen Zoo is a beautiful place to spend some time. It’s expertly landscaped and planted, especially over in the quieter side where the petting zoo is, and where the layout allows for plenty of peace and quiet in secluded corners, away from the crowds.
The zoo has been getting plenty of praise for two recent high-profile additions – the Norman Foster-designed elephant house and the Arctic Ring - but these are crowded, especially at the weekend. And besides, it’s the smaller things that the zoo does well that really make it so enjoyable – plenty of green space for picnics, handy push-carts for transporting tired children and provisions, fun ways to inform and engage kids, and a pleasing lack of stalls selling tat and junk food. Go zoo.
I moved to Copenhagen in January 2006 with enough money to last a few months. I had no job prospects, no contacts, and knew nothing about the city. I can’t quite remember how I heard about the bar. Maybe it was mentioned in some article in the local English-speaking newspaper, or listed in a guidebook. The description was appealing either way.
I seem to recall not being able to find it the first few times I tried. Eventually I achieved the feat. I wandered in early one weekday afternoon and found a dark and scruffy cellar bar with one other patron – both had seen better days. Crucially, the other chap was watching cricket on the TV. I stayed for a few hours, had a couple of beers, made some small talk about the cricket. I returned often. Began to recognise faces and was recognised in turn. The best bars exert a particular force. You see something in them others don’t. But that’s fine because then they’re your own. Bloomsday was my own.
A couple of the pics above I shot while filming in Bloomsday – the bar I’ve drunk in since moving here six and a half years ago and which is closing in less than a week. I’m looking forward to sharing the film with you but I’m not looking forward to life without my favourite bar.
Our second film opens with us foraging on the beaches at Lammefjord and ends with some footage of the fifth meal. We would have liked to get more shots of the dishes themselves but it can get a bit hectic in the kitchen and we kept forgetting. We know for next time.
We really enjoyed working with chef Emil Glaser. He’s a massively talented young cook and we were proud to give him his first opportunity to express himself outside of his day job. He’s been at Noma for a couple of years now and I guess there’s no better place to learn your trade. It will be interesting to see how he develops from here.
Our amazing friend and colleague Hannibal Lang shot, edited and graded the piece and Chris and I directed.
Woke up to a light drizzle and a need to add something to the day. These are all taken in my neighbourhood – a route I take often to walk the dog. Early morning in Vesterbro is tranquil; the all-night bars are shuttered, the cafes and the corner shops take over. One gentleman takes the opportunity to wash his van.